jennifer's blog

purls before wine

Garter Yoke Baby Cardi

68 Comments

I started this little guy on August 29 and finished it on September 9. So why did it take more than 2 months to post about it? Because I was too lazy to type up the 2 page pattern. Anyhoo. Here it is, with plenty of time until Chrismas.

gyr_front

gyr_raglanIt’s a  simple little cardi with super speedy top-down, seamless raglan construction and an optional I-cord button band.  My version was knit with less than 3 skeins of Knit Picks Andean Treasure sportweight alpaca on US 4 (3.5mm) needles at a gauge of 22sts = 4″ in stockinette. It’s silly soft and a little fuzzy and toasty as can be. The finished measurements are 20″ at the chest and 10″ in length. So a 6-12 month sized baby? Or older or younger or something. 

gyr_buttons1The sweater is a very basic, easily adjustable pattern. Tweak ’till your heart’s content. Use thinner yarn and smaller needles for a smaller sweater or thicker yarn and larger needles for a bigger one, just be sure to adjust the length accordingly.

This pattern has not been tested. Please let me know if you find any errors.

Here’s the english pdf, here’s the German version – Baby Cardi Kraus rechts gestrickt (courtesy of Susanne at Stil-Blüte in Braunschweig, Germany), here’s the Italian thanks to Marica at La Maglia Di Marica, here it is in Spanish on Copper Kettles and Woolen Mittens (thanks to MJ in Barcelona), and here it is on Ravelry.

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Author: Jennifer

crafty...knitting, crochet, photography, sewing, cooking (eating), wine

68 thoughts on “Garter Yoke Baby Cardi

  1. love the buttons!

  2. I was just going to make the same comment.. they are adorable. this is reminiscent of the jared flood sweater for men with the garter stitch yoke… love it. wish I had a baby to knit for now!

  3. adorable!!! just beautiful!

  4. Thank you very much for the lovely pattern!!!

  5. Love it!! I like the cozy look of it. If you have more…. that will be great!!

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  10. Hi, I have really enjoyed knitting this sweater! Thank you for posting the pattern for all of us to share.

    I have one question about the knitted-on I-cord, though. I think I am doing it wrong (or is there a typo?) I cast on 3 st, then the repeat consumes 4 stitches, but when you keep repeating, it doesn’t consume any more stitches. Is the YO supposed to be there?

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  12. Sorry for the delayed response. I’m not sure I understand your question, but the I-cord is effectively 3 sts repeated each round. The k2tog connects the 3 st cord to the sweater. Hope that helps.

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  14. I have a question. I knit rows 9 and 10 to when you place sleeves on holder and then got confused. If I sl1 K27 that is the left front not the right. I thought I did one row too many so I ripped out rown 10 but then the purl row (row 2) was on the wrong side. Has anyone else had this problem? Am I reading the pattern wrong?

  15. I haven’t heard of any problems with that part. Perhaps it’s just a matter of perspective? I consider the sl1, k27 of row1 to be the right side of the sweater as if you were wearing it, which is the left side when looking at it. Does that clear it up?

  16. I went ahead with the pattern. I’m not sure I did it right but it looks fine. Is the knit side of the bottom the right side or wrong side? I used it as the right side.

  17. Yep, the knit is the right side. Sorry for the confusion.

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  20. I have a quick question about gauge – usually when a pattern asks to make a swatch, it says how many stitches and how many rows to get to 4″. You just list the number of stitches (22). How many rows?
    Thanks!

  21. I don’t actually know the row gauge. It isn’t critical in this pattern as you make length decisions based on inches, so I never bothered to check. Sorry I can’t be more help.

  22. I am knitting this pattern to learn a few new skills: M1 and PM. (PM isn’t a stitch, I realize, but I’ve never used them before.)

    Question: I don’t understand the instructions in Repeat Rows 9 & 10 “increasing outside markers (leaving 2 stockinette stitches between)”.

    Which stitches exactly do I increase? The markers are not symmetrical.

    Are Rows 1-10 one sleeve and then do I need to knit all that againe to make sleeve #2?

    I don’t understand what it means to “place sleeves on holders and continue with the body, dropping markers as you go”.

    Sorry for being so dense!

  23. The error in the pattern is with the I-cord buttonholes. There is a yo that should not be there. So it should be cast on 3 sts. K 2 and then 2 together (picking up on st from the button band). That causes you to be able to “work down the band” picking up 1 st at a time until you are at the bottom. So I think the error is the YO.

    I am trying to make it in worsted and size 7 needles for an older baby, but I’m not sure of the proportion in length between body length and sleeve length. Any suggestions? I want the 24″ body width. I can’t tell by looking at it. Is there a formula for the relationship between the sweater width and sweater body length and sleeve length?
    great pattern otherwise.

  24. The markers should be symmetrical. Remember that the sl1 counts as a stitch. Perhaps this will clarify it some?

    All of your m1s will be on knit rows for this project. Place your marker after you make a m1. So the layout is front, marker, 2sts, marker, sleeve, marker, 2sts, marker, back, marker, 2sts, marker, sleeve, marker, 2sts, marker, front. The 2sts remain constant, but the fronts, sleeves, and back increase sts every odd row.

    The raglan shaping will add 8sts every odd row (one m1 on either side of the k2 that forms the front and back seam of each sleeve).

    Row 11: sl1, k10, m1, pm, k2, pm, m1, k8, m1, pm, k2, pm, m1, k22, m1, pm, k2, pm, m1, k8, m1, pm, k2, pm, m1, k11 (76sts)

    Row 12: sl1, k11, pm, p2, pm, k10, pm, p2, pm, k24, pm, p2, pm, k10, pm, p2, pm, k12.

    Row 13: sl1, k11, m1, pm, k2, pm, m1, k10, m1, pm, k2, pm, m1, k24, m1, pm, k2, pm, m1, k10, m1, pm, k2, pm, m1, k12 (84sts)

    Row 14: sl1, k12, pm, p2, pm, k12, pm, p2, pm, k26, pm, p2, pm, k12, pm, p2, pm, k13.

    Note how the m1, pm, k2, pm, m1 is consistent regardless of the number of stitches elsewhere.

    As for placing the arms on holders, it means to move the stitches from active knitting to a temporary holder (an extra piece of smooth yarn, an extra circular needle, a dpn with endcaps, or a dedicated stitch holder). This will allow you to knit the lower body in continuous rows, eliminating side seams. Once the lower body is completed, you’ll go back to the sleeve stitches and knit them circularly.

    Hope this helps.

  25. Thank you for the generous sharing. Obviously so much work goes into creating a pattern. I have never knitted a top down garment and this one looks so cosy and comfy, I will try it. Thanks again for the creativity and sharing.

  26. Thanks. Hope you like the finished product.

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  29. I have just started this cute little cardi. I’m troubled with row 9. When i follow your instructions i get exactly 68 stitches as called for, BUT I DO NOT have the last 10 stitches for a knit 10. i only seem to have 2 stitches. HELP!!

  30. still thinking on this…. do i perhaps M1 on the 9th knitted stitch in the k9? I was sl 1 k9 then making a stitch on 11th stitch. i’ll give this a try. Sigh :(

  31. Hi! I love this pattern and want to upsize it for a toddler. Have you seen if anyone else has already done the math for that? I’ve looked around on Ravelry and can’t find anything. I’m a little nervous to do it on my own, but love the pattern and think it would a perfect piece for my toddler girl!

  32. I too am having problems with row 9. I was left with too few stitches on the end. When I add up the stitches on the pattern I get 76 not 68. Is the make 1 supposed to be on the 9th stitch of the knit 9? Please help, I just can’t start over again.

  33. Great pattern!!! Only confusing part was the yarn over when knitting the I cord. Once I left out the yarn over it came together perfectly. Love the look for button holes! Thanks for the pattern!

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  35. Korinthe- glad you asked that question about the i-cord. it was driving me crazy!! so glad rita c. noticed. i think the YO is a mistake. either that or you have to keep k1 and then k2tog inorder to pick up a st on the edge. consume as you put it. i’m doing the buitton band now and really want to try smthg new like the i cord band b/c i bbought some great buttons and i think the i-cord will show them nicely.

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  40. Thank you so much for this adorable pattern :). It’s on my needles right now, and I love it! I added some lace hearts at the bottom of the sweater to give it a lil pizazz, and I’m using a pink glittery yarn, it’s quite adorable :). Thanks for making this pattern easy to understand!

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  42. Question : are the 2 stockinette st’s that form raglan seam included on holders for sleeve st’s or are they part of body (when you separate sleeves from body to knit body of sweater)? thanks!

  43. Hi ,
    I have some great fingering weight yarn I would love use for this sweater. You said that u can use a smaller yarn and smaller needles. What would I do for fingering? Thanks so much for your help.

  44. It’s been so long since I’ve knit this that I don’t recall. But based on the numbers the 2 stockinettes are part of the body. Good luck.

  45. Here’s a link to Ravelry. There are many sweaters others have made in fingering weight yarn. From the comments that I skimmed, following the pattern in thinner yarn and tighter gauge made a newborn sized sweater. Frenchconnection on Rav CO 112 sts in fingering weight to match the original pattern size. Hope this helps!

  46. Thanks! Glad you are enjoying it.

  47. Loved making this sweater and my granddaughter has been wearing it from infancy to now [1 yr] – it is a different look, with 3/4 sleeves, but so adorable, my daughter gets comments all the time. I would love to make it again for her for next winter. Have you adapted it for larger sizes or is there a trick for doing that? Thanks!

  48. I haven’t made a larger size, but a few people on Ravelry have used a thicker gauge yarn (maybe worsted) and just knit it longer than the original.

    Check out these projects:

    http://www.ravelry.com/projects/subatomic/garter-yoke-baby-cardi

    http://www.ravelry.com/projects/itgirlxx/garter-yoke-baby-cardi

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  52. i have been looking for a simple childs cardigan.. looks like i might have found it… can;t wait to start it :-))

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  55. Hi. I just sent you a message on ravelry about the cardie but I think I have found the answer on this forum. However, I would like to know if you leave the markers in or do you take them out each time to get to the next row? Sorry, I’not very advanced!
    Kiki

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  57. Love the pattern. Here is my question: On row 2 (after row where sleeves are put on holder), should that be a Knit row since this is the front of the sweater? Thanks.

  58. Oops! In reading over the pattern, I realize what I did wrong:(. Instead of knitting Row 10, I put the sleeves on holders after row 9. Had I made row 10, that would get me to your correct instructions. My bad, but incentive to try again. Thanks again for the cute pattern.

  59. I think the issue with row 9 is that some people learn to make stitches (myself included) by knitting into the front and back of the same stitch. This method uses a stitch. I had the same problem with not having enough stitches left in row 9. Then I found there are youtube tutorials that show you how to make a stitch without using a stitch in the process. This made the pattern work beautifully.

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  62. Comment avoir la traduction en français du Yoke Cardi ? Merci d’avance pour votre réponse.
    Montmorency

  63. Hi Jennifer. I love this pattern, and have finished the yoke. It looks perfect, but I have 202 sts instead of 188. Do you have any idea where I could have gone wrong. I can’t rip-I have to make two. How would I adjust the length to make this work? I followed the directions exactly, but I have 14 extra sts! Thanks. Marilyn

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  66. I don’t find this to be “very basic”. I think there needs to be more detail in the instructions. It’s very confusing. The M1 was not intuitive. I ripped it out and figured if I couldn’t get the M1, then the rest would be way to hard.

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